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  Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center: British Hawker Hurricane, with P-38 Lightning and B-29 Enola Gay behind it

  Quoting Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum | Hawker Hurricane Mk. IIC: Hawker Chief Designer Sydney Camm's Hurricane ranks with the most important aircraft designs in military aviation history. Designed in...

  Photo by Chris Devers on Flickr

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  Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center: View of south hangar, including B-29 Superfortress "Enola Gay", a glimpse of the Air France Concorde, and many others

  Quoting Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum | Boeing B-29 Superfortress "Enola Gay": Boeing's B-29 Superfortress was the most sophisticated propeller-driven bomber of World War II and the first bomber...

  Photo by Chris Devers on Flickr

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  Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center: View over World War Two aviation wing, including Japanese planes and B-29 Enola Gay

  See more photos of this, and the Wikipedia article. Details, quoting from Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum: Steven F. Udvar-Hazy | Nakajima J1N1-S Gekko (Moonlight) IRVING: Originally designed as a...

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  Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center: Grumman F6F-3 Hellcat

  Quoting Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum | Grumman F6F-3 Hellcat: The Grumman F6F Hellcat was originally conceived as an advanced version of the U.S. Navy's then current front-line fighter, the F4F Wildcat...

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  Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center: Vought F4U-1D Corsair, with P-40 Warhawk in background

  Quoting Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum | Vought F4U-1D Corsair : By V-J Day, September 2, 1945, Corsair pilots had amassed an 11:1 kill ratio against enemy aircraft. The aircraft's distinctive inverted...

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  Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center: B-29 Superfortress "Enola Gay" panorama

  Quoting Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum | Lockheed P-38J-10-LO Lightning : In the P-38 Lockheed engineer Clarence "Kelly" Johnson and his team of designers created one of the most successful...

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  Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center: View of south hangar, including B-29 Superfortress "Enola Gay", a glimpse of the Air France Concorde, and many others

  Quoting Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum | Boeing B-29 Superfortress "Enola Gay": Boeing's B-29 Superfortress was the most sophisticated propeller-driven bomber of World War II and the first bomber...

  Photo by Chris Devers on Flickr

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  Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center: main hall panorama

  See more photos of this, and the Wikipedia article. Details, quoting from Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum | _details_pending_:

  Photo by Chris Devers on Flickr

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  Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center: Photomontage of Overview of the south hangar, including B-29 "Enola Gay" and Concorde

  Photo by Chris Devers on Flickr

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  Chrysler, Dodge, Ram, Jeep Recalls: What Owners Should Do

  07/27/15, via Cars.com News

  Part of the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's civil penalties on Fiat Chrysler Automobiles, which could amount to $105 million, involve several programs for owners of affected Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep and Ram vehicles. If you have an older

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  FCA Must Offer To Buy Back 200000 Pickups And SUVs Over Uncompleted Recalls

  07/30/15, via Carscoops (blog)

  The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) has ordered Fiat-Chrysler to offer to buy back from customers any of the 580,000 pickup trucks and SUVs that it failed to fix during several recalls, and which according to FCA, amount to

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  Thousands remain without power as Missoula cleans up after Monday windstorm

  08/11/15, via Helena Independent Record

  A large spruce tree had crushed a Dodge Ram pickup truck parked next door. The truck's owner was safe by virtue of good timing. “He'd been on the phone with his wife just before the power went out,” Wahlstrom said of her neighbor. “His wife had told

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  Hackers Remotely Kill a Jeep on the Highway—With Me in It

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  Back then, however, their hacks had a comforting limitation: The attacker's PC had been wired into the vehicles' onboard diagnostic port, a feature that normally gives repair technicians access to information about the car's electronically controlled

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  GM's Chevrolet takes shots at Ford's aluminum F-150

  07/06/15, via USA TODAY

  We're having a great year so far and we want to build on that momentum." In the 3-minute commercial, GM said it hired AMCI Testing to survey the differences in repair costs and time between the Silverado and F-150. The automaker said it tested four

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  Feds order Fiat Chrysler to defend pace of 20 recalls

  05/18/15, via USA TODAY

  Federal regulators on Monday announced a public hearing July 2 to investigate whether Fiat Chrysler Automobiles has failed to properly carry out 20 recalls involving about 10 million vehicles. National Highway Traffic Safety Administration

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  Is Your Car Part of the Takata Airbag Recall?

  05/26/15, via Cars.com News

  On May 28, BMW added the 2002-2003 5 Series sedan (including the M5) and wagon plus the 2003-2004 X5 SUV, but only models with the optional sport steering wheel are affected. FCA confirmed the current list includes "certain" 2003-2008 Dodge Ram

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  Dodge Ram Four Wheel Drive Repair
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  1999 4×4 4 Wheel Drive Dodge Ram 1500: Front Axle U Joint and Hub ...
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Thousands remain without power as Missoula cleans up after Monday windstorm - Helena Independent Record

Roman Zylawy responded to a series of crashes near Lookout Pass after a pair of trees in the median of I-90 were blown down, blocking the eastbound lanes about four miles from the Idaho border. Drivers who were in the right-hand lane were able to avoid the larger trunk of the tree, but still had undercarriage damage and broken wheels from hitting the end of the tree. “When he saw the tree, he tried to shift back and ended up sideswiping the semi,” Zylawy said. As the co-driver of the semi got out of the vehicle to set up hazard triangles to warn drivers, Zylawy said another car hit the tree, lost control, and hit the co-driver, then crashed into the back of the stationary truck. Minutes later, another vehicle that was passing traffic in the left lane crashed into the tree, and Zylawy said he may have run over the semi co-driver who had already been hit. They hit the tree pretty hard,” Zylawy said. The trooper said it took crews until 4 a. m. Tuesday to fully clear the road of trees, debris and vehicles. MISSOULA -- Neighborhoods silenced and darkened by Monday’s storm came to life early Tuesday, as Missoula residents dealt with toppled trees, blocked roads, crushed vehicles and downed power. Source: helenair.com

GM's Chevrolet takes shots at Ford's aluminum F-150 - USA TODAY

The rivalry between General Motors and Ford intensified on a key battlefront: the pickup truck wars. GM released a stinging Web commercial taking direct shots at Ford over the costs and speed of the Blue Oval automaker's pickup truck repairs. The Web hit — which may turn into a full-blown TV ad campaign — features NFL broadcast personality Howie Long interviewing an expert about the costs of fixing the aluminum-bodied Ford F-150 full-size pickup truck. In the ad, GM claims it costs an average of $1,755 more and took an additional 34 days to fix the F-150 than its direct GM competitor, the Chevrolet Silverado, following a simulated low-speed accident. "So if I'm a guy that uses my truck for work, every day I don't have that truck, that costs me money," Long says. The Web scuffle joins a storied tradition of marketing jabs between GM and Ford — sometimes all in good fun, sometimes not so much. A few years ago, GM took a few digs at Ford in a Super Bowl commercial, eliciting a cease-and-desist letter from Ford that GM promptly ignored. Ford bet heavily on aluminum when it released the redesigned F-series trucks last year, believing that consumers would embrace the lighter metal, which translates into better fuel economy. Source: www.usatoday.com

'Batman: Arkham Knight' Batmobile Guide: 5 Tips For Ruling The Streets Of Gotham - Tech Times

However, it's not as simple as hopping into the driver's seat and becoming the most feared superhero on four wheels. Use Battle Mode To Navigate Tight Areas There are two main functions of the Batmobile: pursuit mode and battle mode. Battle mode is exactly what it sounds like: it turns the car into a tank to be used against enemy vehicles. Once in battle mode, though, the car doesn't have the same maneuverability as in pursuit mode. Instead of hitting the afterburners and hopping over chasms, battle mode's movements include more dodging and strafing. So use battle mode whenever you think you're one wrong move away from a steep drop. Thankfully, these tanks aren't the smartest enemies in the game, so when you see a tank lining up its blue targeting laser on you, quickly use your dodge thrusters to put another vehicle between you. When you quickly put an enemy tank between yourself and the tank targeting you, there's a chance the tank will mistakenly fire on its own teammate, saving you the trouble of destroying it yourself. Source: www.techtimes.com

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• 94+ Ram 4 Wheel Drive Operation - Dodge Ram

  Diagnosing 4WD Engagement Problems on Dodge Ram pickups DodgeRam.org > Main > Tech > Maintenance > 4X4 Engagement   94+ Ram 4 Wheel Drive Operation (& Diagnosing 4WD Engagement Problems) Visit Geno's Garagefor Truck accessories. CAD operation CAD alternatives Hard Low range shift 4x4 Engagement Problems Limited Slip Test

   

  From the 1998 Owners Manual:   Transfer Case Shifting Procedure: 

  2H to 4H or 4H to 2H Shifts between 2H and 4H can be made while the vehicle is moving or stopped. If the vehicle is moving, shifts can be made at any speed up to 55 mph. This shift will be easier if you momentarily release the accelerator pedal. Apply a constant force while shifting the transfer case lever. NEVER drive in 4H on dry, paved roads. 

  NOTE:  During cold weather (below 30 F) it may be more difficult to shift the transfer case while the vehicle is moving. If so, stop the vehicle and shift. Move the vehicle slightly forward or backward to complete positive engagement of the gears. 

  4H to 4L or 4L to 4H 

  Slow the vehicle to under 3 mph (5 kmh), shift an automatic transmission to N (Neutral) or depress the clutch on a manual transmission. Shift the transfer case lever to the right and pull firmly down into 4L. Do not pause in transfer case N (Neutral). 

  NOTE:  Pausing in transfer case N (neutral) in vehicles equipped with an automatic transmission may require shutting the engine off to avoid gear clash while completing the shift. If difficulty occurs, shift transmission to Neutral (N), hold foot on brake, turn engine off, and THEN make the shift to desired mode. 

  Do not attempt to shift to or from 4L while transmission is in gear or clutch is engaged.

   > Is the front diff always engaged and 4WD controlled only by the> transfer case? If not, then how is the front diff engaged?

    As you may have noticed, there are no hubs (manual or automatic) on the 4x4 Ram.

    The drivers side front wheel is permanently connected to an axle shaft which runs to the differential. 

  The passengers side has a two piece axle, one half permanently connected to the wheel, one half (intermediate axle shaft) connected to the differential. The two halves meet in the middle of the passenger side axle tube (that bulge on the axle tube is where the axle disconnect lives).  The two halves are connected together for 4X4 operation by the Center Axle Disconnect mechanism shown at the right. The inner axle shaft has a nose, which fits into a socket in the end of the outer axle shaft. The photo at the right shows the two ends which meet at the shift collar. A needle bearing in the outer axle shaft socket allows the inner and outer axle shafts to rotate independently.

   In 2WD, the axle disconnect keeps the two passenger side axle halves independent. The driver side axle happily spins the side gear in the differential, but because the differential is open and there is no solid connection on the passenger side, the side gear simply spins the diff's spider gears, which then spin the passenger side inner axle shaft backwards. Neither the differential's ring gear nor the front driveshaft will turn while in 2WD.

  With me so far? OK, now when you shift into 4WD it gets a little more complicated...

  A synchronizer in the transfer case spins the front driveshaft up to speed The 4x4 shift lever locks into place and engages a vacuum switch Vacuum lines swap the High/Low vacuum signals to the vacuum solenoid on the front axle The vacuum solenoid (shift motor) slides the splined shift collar When the splines on the two axle stubs align, the collar locks into place Now that the axle ends are locked together by the shift collar and you have 4WD       Left:  CAD Vacuum System    Below: CAD shift motor components  

  Front Axle CAD Alternatives

  So, you don't like the vacuum CAD system because it doesn't allow 2WD-Low, or doesn't engage fast enough, or you really want manual hubs. What can you do?

  4x4 Posi-Lok - replaces the existing vacuum shift motor with a new manually controlled shifter. Bob Verhoef's 2WD LOW - a vacuum switch system that prevents the CAD from locking when the transfer case is in low range. Dynatrac manual hub conversion - replaces the axle shaft, CAD, and hub assembly with a manual hub system.

  More 4X4 operation notes from the mail lists:

  Subject:     Re: 4WD QuestionDate:         Wed, 28 Jan 1998 09:52:55 -0800From:        dsimkins@teknowledge.comTo:            cummins

  > When I am operating my Suburban on the street with 4WD disengaged, my> front axles do not turn. However, I notice that on the Dodge trucks, on the> street, the axles are turning. So what is happening here?

  In 94 and newer Dodge trucks, the front axles always turn. There are no hubs at the front wheels to engage/disengage. Inside the front axle housing, on the passenger side, the front axle is split. There is a spline coupling that slides back and forth to connect/disconnect the front axle. This spline is controlled through the transfer case shift lever.

  Dan

  Subject:    [RAM] Axle DisconnectDate:        Wed, 04 Jun 1997 11:31:59 +0000From:       Chris Siano <Chris_Siano@iacnet.com>To:           ramtruck

  You are correct that the axle disconnect does wear more than the old hubs. Basically, you are spinning everything but the diff and the front driveshaft. The outer axles spin with the wheels.  The side gear on the front diff is turned by the axle on the driver's side.  This side gear spins the spiders and the opposite side gear.  The central axle shaft is then spun opposite to the wheels by the diff.  (same action as rotating a tire on a lift and watching the other turn backwards.)

  When you shift, a mechanical interlock activates the front driveshaft.  This in turn slows the central axle and then rotates it in the same direction as the wheels.  At this time, a vacuum line is switched that places pressure on a diaphragm behind the front axle on the passenger side (looks like a little power brake diaphragm).  As the central axle reaches the same speed as the outer axle on the passenger side, the pressure on the diaphragm slides a connecting collar over the splines of the two axles and links them.  Similar to the way a hub moves the splined collar over the end of the axle.

  When you disengage, it all works in reverse.  You don't have to stop, back-up, or anything else.

  Sometimes, the 4WD light stays on, or fails to come on.  This is a great indicator.  What it means is that there is a difference in speed between the two axle ends, and the vacuum can't move the collar.  Burping the throttle, twisting the wheel side to side, or shifting the 4WD again generally releases the pressure.

  2 things.  1) It is easier to shift while moving.  Even into 4LO, a slight roll makes the shift easier.  If you are stuck, and it won't shift, turn the steering wheel side to side as you burb the throttle to get the axles to line up.  When at a stop, it is very tough to line up non-moving splines.

  Pros and Cons

  Fairly strong.  The size of the axle shaft at the disconnect is significantly stronger than a hub end could ever be.  The outer axle splines can have a much tighter tolerance and thus distributes the load better.  The weak point is the bearing carrier design instead of using discrete inner and outer bearings.  In the early Jeeps, there was close to 4" between the inner and outer bearings to support side loads.  In the Ram, there is only 1/8" between them.  This makes rim backspace selection critical, and requires much higher tolerances in the bearings themselves.  Also, with no way to service the bearings without a 20 ton press, you have no way to prevent failure without spending $300 for a new carrier.

  Since the use of 4WD requires vacuum, a leak, or destruction of the lines can render the 4WD inoperative.  However, the lines are fairly well protected, and failures are rare.  The vacuum switch is a known weak point.  The switch is a little tower on the transfer case with four lines coming from it.  The switch is activated by the transfer case when a lever inside the case presses a plunger at the base of the switch.  Then, a spring in the switch extends the plunger when the lever is retracted.  The problem is that the plunger is rounded to ease the lever's action.  This rounded part can be easily jammed inside the switch by the standard gunk in the transfer case.  When this happens, the interlock and the 4WD light will not disengage.  It is an easy fix by just un screwing the switch and cleaning it, but when it happens, you can feel the extra drag of the front driveshaft and associated parts.

  Maintenance is very easy.  A fluid change every so often is about all it requires.  No spindle bearings to wear out, no dial to regrease, and no seals to leak.  (actually the axle seals can leak, but it isn't too common.  The part that sucks is that the passenger side seal is a bugger to replace as the seal must be pressed from inside the disconnect housing.)

  This is my third vehicle with the disconnect system and I've never really had any major problems with it.  Sure, I've had seals leak, and the switch jam, and other annoying things, but when I need 4WD, it has always been there.

  I've also had vehicles with manual and auto hubs, and this is still an easier and more reliable system.  It is only when you HAVE to get the system engaged while stopped that it can be difficult.  For me, I just engage the 4WD earlier.  Besides, it goes with the tread Lightly ideals.

  ---------------Just another message from the RamHack

   

  Symptom:  Difficult shifting from 4HI to 4LOW or from 4LOW to 4HI  - usually affects Rams with the automatic transmission.

  This is a common problem with the automatic transmission. Unlike a manual with the clutch depressed, the auto is trying to spin the output shaft unless it is in park (many transmissions still "windmill" the gears even in neutral).

  When the vehicle is stopped to shift into (or out of) lo range, the transfer case goes through the neutral position while the automatic transmission tries to spin the gear cluster. This causes the grinding and difficult shifting. Some people try (with mixed results) to shift while rolling at very low speed so that everything is turning. It helps to perform the shift as quickly as possible so the gears don't have time to start moving independently (I didn't say it was easy!).From Mike Di Giovanni <mdigiova@direct.ca>

  What I have found that works pretty good is, put it in neutral and "WAIT 20-30 SECONDS" for the tranny and transfer case internals to come to the same speed, then pull or push the shifter lever aggressively. (depending if you want to apply 4lo or disengage 4lo.) Mike Di Giovanni    Port Coquitlam, B.C.   Canadahttp://mypage.direct.ca/m/mdigiova

  Diagnosing 4X4 Engage Problems

  If you like to four-wheel, brush on the trails can rip the vacuum lines from the axle CAD. Carefully check the lines between the frame and the CAD diaphragm, for damage or oil contamination. Numerous people have ripped the lines loose and one person has found that transmission fluid dripping onto the vacuum lines caused them to swell and leak. If there is no obvious damage, proceed with the diagnosis below:

  > I have a 97 RAM 1500 Club Cab Sport 4 X4 and I am having> a problem with the 4 x 4 High and Low engage light.. it just> will not come on when I put the truck into 4 wheel drive......> ANY SUGGESTIONS ???

  If this truck was mine I would:

  Shift into 4WD and move truck a couple of feet If light is still off, park truck, block the wheels, set the park  brake, jack right front wheel, and try to hand spin the wheel If wheel doesn't turn, 4x4 is functioning properly but there is a wiring problem: use an ohmmeter to check the 4x4 switch, wiring, fuse, and bulb. If wheel turns freely, the front axle or transfer case is not engaged: continue... Attempt to hand spin the front driveshaft If the driveshaft WILL spin, the transfer case is not engaged Check the transfer case shift linkage, problem is in linkage (or in the tran$fer ca$e internal$ <-- yes this means $$,  ouch!) If the driveshaft will NOT spin, the transfer case is engaged properly: continue... USE CAUTION!      With transmission in neutral or park, start engine, measure vacuum on the two vac lines at front axle shift motor. One line should have approx 20" vacuum, other line should have none. If NO vacuum measured, look for vacuum leak or bad vacuum switch. If both lines have vacuum, look for a bad vacuum switch or ruptured CAD actuator diaphragm. If one line has 20" +/- vacuum: Move transfer case lever to 2WD, measure vacuum again. Lines should have swapped vacuum signals. If No: vacuum switch bad or 4WD shift linkage needs adjusting If Yes: Vacuum motor bad or stuck, or shift fork stuck: continue Remove vacuum shift motor from the axle, attach vac lines to shift motor, engage/disengage 4WD. Does shift motor plunger move at least 1/2"? No: shift motor bad Yes: Check axle shift fork and vacuum motor for binding

  Good luck.   Dave

  Checking For Limited Differential Operation

  > How can I find out whether my RAM has a limited-slip differential or  not?

  The only sure way to tell if a LS differential is installed AND working is to:

  - block the wheels- put the transmission in neutral- release the parking brake- jack one rear wheel until the tire clears the ground- try to turn the tire by hand.

  * If it turns freely, the differential is open  (build codes, stickers, axle tags, etc can be wrong) or the LS clutches are worn out.

  *  If it requires at least 50 ft-lb to turn the tire, there is a traction aiding diff of some kind installed (or a bad bearing somewhere).

  Dave

   

   Last Update: November 1, 2000

  Diagnosing 4WD Engagement Problems on Dodge Ram pickups DodgeRam.org > Main > Tech > Maintenance > 4X4 Engagement   94+ Ram 4 Wheel Drive Operation (& Diagnosing 4WD Engagement Problems) Visit Geno's Garagefor Truck accessories. CAD operation CAD alternatives Hard Low range shift 4x4 Engagement Problems Limited Slip Test

   

  From the 1998 Owners Manual:   Transfer Case Shifting Procedure: 

  2H to 4H or 4H to 2H Shifts between 2H and 4H can be made while the vehicle is moving or stopped. If the vehicle is moving, shifts can be made at any speed up to 55 mph. This shift will be easier if you momentarily release the accelerator pedal. Apply a constant force while shifting the transfer case lever. NEVER drive in 4H on dry, paved roads. 

  NOTE:  During cold weather (below 30 F) it may be more difficult to shift the transfer case while the vehicle is moving. If so, stop the vehicle and shift. Move the vehicle slightly forward or backward to complete positive engagement of the gears. 

  4H to 4L or 4L to 4H 

  Slow the vehicle to under 3 mph (5 kmh), shift an automatic transmission to N (Neutral) or depress the clutch on a manual transmission. Shift the transfer case lever to the right and pull firmly down into 4L. Do not pause in transfer case N (Neutral). 

  NOTE:  Pausing in transfer case N (neutral) in vehicles equipped with an automatic transmission may require shutting the engine off to avoid gear clash while completing the shift. If difficulty occurs, shift transmission to Neutral (N), hold foot on brake, turn engine off, and THEN make the shift to desired mode. 

  Do not attempt to shift to or from 4L while transmission is in gear or clutch is engaged.

   > Is the front diff always engaged and 4WD controlled only by the> transfer case? If not, then how is the front diff engaged?

    As you may have noticed, there are no hubs (manual or automatic) on the 4x4 Ram.

    The drivers side front wheel is permanently connected to an axle shaft which runs to the differential. 

  The passengers side has a two piece axle, one half permanently connected to the wheel, one half (intermediate axle shaft) connected to the differential. The two halves meet in the middle of the passenger side axle tube (that bulge on the axle tube is where the axle disconnect lives).  The two halves are connected together for 4X4 operation by the Center Axle Disconnect mechanism shown at the right. The inner axle shaft has a nose, which fits into a socket in the end of the outer axle shaft. The photo at the right shows the two ends which meet at the shift collar. A needle bearing in the outer axle shaft socket allows the inner and outer axle shafts to rotate independently.

   In 2WD, the axle disconnect keeps the two passenger side axle halves independent. The driver side axle happily spins the side gear in the differential, but because the differential is open and there is no solid connection on the passenger side, the side gear simply spins the diff's spider gears, which then spin the passenger side inner axle shaft backwards. Neither the differential's ring gear nor the front driveshaft will turn while in 2WD.

  With me so far? OK, now when you shift into 4WD it gets a little more complicated...

  A synchronizer in the transfer case spins the front driveshaft up to speed The 4x4 shift lever locks into place and engages a vacuum switch Vacuum lines swap the High/Low vacuum signals to the vacuum solenoid on the front axle The vacuum solenoid (shift motor) slides the splined shift collar When the splines on the two axle stubs align, the collar locks into place Now that the axle ends are locked together by the shift collar and you have 4WD       Left:  CAD Vacuum System    Below: CAD shift motor components  

  Front Axle CAD Alternatives

  So, you don't like the vacuum CAD system because it doesn't allow 2WD-Low, or doesn't engage fast enough, or you really want manual hubs. What can you do?

  4x4 Posi-Lok - replaces the existing vacuum shift motor with a new manually controlled shifter. Bob Verhoef's 2WD LOW - a vacuum switch system that prevents the CAD from locking when the transfer case is in low range. Dynatrac manual hub conversion - replaces the axle shaft, CAD, and hub assembly with a manual hub system.

  More 4X4 operation notes from the mail lists:

  Subject:     Re: 4WD QuestionDate:         Wed, 28 Jan 1998 09:52:55 -0800From:        dsimkins@teknowledge.comTo:            cummins

  > When I am operating my Suburban on the street with 4WD disengaged, my> front axles do not turn. However, I notice that on the Dodge trucks, on the> street, the axles are turning. So what is happening here?

  In 94 and newer Dodge trucks, the front axles always turn. There are no hubs at the front wheels to engage/disengage. Inside the front axle housing, on the passenger side, the front axle is split. There is a spline coupling that slides back and forth to connect/disconnect the front axle. This spline is controlled through the transfer case shift lever.

  Dan

  Subject:    [RAM] Axle DisconnectDate:        Wed, 04 Jun 1997 11:31:59 +0000From:       Chris Siano <Chris_Siano@iacnet.com>To:           ramtruck

  You are correct that the axle disconnect does wear more than the old hubs. Basically, you are spinning everything but the diff and the front driveshaft. The outer axles spin with the wheels.  The side gear on the front diff is turned by the axle on the driver's side.  This side gear spins the spiders and the opposite side gear.  The central axle shaft is then spun opposite to the wheels by the diff.  (same action as rotating a tire on a lift and watching the other turn backwards.)

  When you shift, a mechanical interlock activates the front driveshaft.  This in turn slows the central axle and then rotates it in the same direction as the wheels.  At this time, a vacuum line is switched that places pressure on a diaphragm behind the front axle on the passenger side (looks like a little power brake diaphragm).  As the central axle reaches the same speed as the outer axle on the passenger side, the pressure on the diaphragm slides a connecting collar over the splines of the two axles and links them.  Similar to the way a hub moves the splined collar over the end of the axle.

  When you disengage, it all works in reverse.  You don't have to stop, back-up, or anything else.

  Sometimes, the 4WD light stays on, or fails to come on.  This is a great indicator.  What it means is that there is a difference in speed between the two axle ends, and the vacuum can't move the collar.  Burping the throttle, twisting the wheel side to side, or shifting the 4WD again generally releases the pressure.

  2 things.  1) It is easier to shift while moving.  Even into 4LO, a slight roll makes the shift easier.  If you are stuck, and it won't shift, turn the steering wheel side to side as you burb the throttle to get the axles to line up.  When at a stop, it is very tough to line up non-moving splines.

  Pros and Cons

  Fairly strong.  The size of the axle shaft at the disconnect is significantly stronger than a hub end could ever be.  The outer axle splines can have a much tighter tolerance and thus distributes the load better.  The weak point is the bearing carrier design instead of using discrete inner and outer bearings.  In the early Jeeps, there was close to 4" between the inner and outer bearings to support side loads.  In the Ram, there is only 1/8" between them.  This makes rim backspace selection critical, and requires much higher tolerances in the bearings themselves.  Also, with no way to service the bearings without a 20 ton press, you have no way to prevent failure without spending $300 for a new carrier.

  Since the use of 4WD requires vacuum, a leak, or destruction of the lines can render the 4WD inoperative.  However, the lines are fairly well protected, and failures are rare.  The vacuum switch is a known weak point.  The switch is a little tower on the transfer case with four lines coming from it.  The switch is activated by the transfer case when a lever inside the case presses a plunger at the base of the switch.  Then, a spring in the switch extends the plunger when the lever is retracted.  The problem is that the plunger is rounded to ease the lever's action.  This rounded part can be easily jammed inside the switch by the standard gunk in the transfer case.  When this happens, the interlock and the 4WD light will not disengage.  It is an easy fix by just un screwing the switch and cleaning it, but when it happens, you can feel the extra drag of the front driveshaft and associated parts.

  Maintenance is very easy.  A fluid change every so often is about all it requires.  No spindle bearings to wear out, no dial to regrease, and no seals to leak.  (actually the axle seals can leak, but it isn't too common.  The part that sucks is that the passenger side seal is a bugger to replace as the seal must be pressed from inside the disconnect housing.)

  This is my third vehicle with the disconnect system and I've never really had any major problems with it.  Sure, I've had seals leak, and the switch jam, and other annoying things, but when I need 4WD, it has always been there.

  I've also had vehicles with manual and auto hubs, and this is still an easier and more reliable system.  It is only when you HAVE to get the system engaged while stopped that it can be difficult.  For me, I just engage the 4WD earlier.  Besides, it goes with the tread Lightly ideals.

  ---------------Just another message from the RamHack

   

  Symptom:  Difficult shifting from 4HI to 4LOW or from 4LOW to 4HI  - usually affects Rams with the automatic transmission.

  This is a common problem with the automatic transmission. Unlike a manual with the clutch depressed, the auto is trying to spin the output shaft unless it is in park (many transmissions still "windmill" the gears even in neutral).

  When the vehicle is stopped to shift into (or out of) lo range, the transfer case goes through the neutral position while the automatic transmission tries to spin the gear cluster. This causes the grinding and difficult shifting. Some people try (with mixed results) to shift while rolling at very low speed so that everything is turning. It helps to perform the shift as quickly as possible so the gears don't have time to start moving independently (I didn't say it was easy!).From Mike Di Giovanni <mdigiova@direct.ca>

  What I have found that works pretty good is, put it in neutral and "WAIT 20-30 SECONDS" for the tranny and transfer case internals to come to the same speed, then pull or push the shifter lever aggressively. (depending if you want to apply 4lo or disengage 4lo.) Mike Di Giovanni    Port Coquitlam, B.C.   Canadahttp://mypage.direct.ca/m/mdigiova

  Diagnosing 4X4 Engage Problems

  If you like to four-wheel, brush on the trails can rip the vacuum lines from the axle CAD. Carefully check the lines between the frame and the CAD diaphragm, for damage or oil contamination. Numerous people have ripped the lines loose and one person has found that transmission fluid dripping onto the vacuum lines caused them to swell and leak. If there is no obvious damage, proceed with the diagnosis below:

  > I have a 97 RAM 1500 Club Cab Sport 4 X4 and I am having> a problem with the 4 x 4 High and Low engage light.. it just> will not come on when I put the truck into 4 wheel drive......> ANY SUGGESTIONS ???

  If this truck was mine I would:

  Shift into 4WD and move truck a couple of feet If light is still off, park truck, block the wheels, set the park  brake, jack right front wheel, and try to hand spin the wheel If wheel doesn't turn, 4x4 is functioning properly but there is a wiring problem: use an ohmmeter to check the 4x4 switch, wiring, fuse, and bulb. If wheel turns freely, the front axle or transfer case is not engaged: continue... Attempt to hand spin the front driveshaft If the driveshaft WILL spin, the transfer case is not engaged Check the transfer case shift linkage, problem is in linkage (or in the tran$fer ca$e internal$ <-- yes this means $$,  ouch!) If the driveshaft will NOT spin, the transfer case is engaged properly: continue... USE CAUTION!      With transmission in neutral or park, start engine, measure vacuum on the two vac lines at front axle shift motor. One line should have approx 20" vacuum, other line should have none. If NO vacuum measured, look for vacuum leak or bad vacuum switch. If both lines have vacuum, look for a bad vacuum switch or ruptured CAD actuator diaphragm. If one line has 20" +/- vacuum: Move transfer case lever to 2WD, measure vacuum again. Lines should have swapped vacuum signals. If No: vacuum switch bad or 4WD shift linkage needs adjusting If Yes: Vacuum motor bad or stuck, or shift fork stuck: continue Remove vacuum shift motor from the axle, attach vac lines to shift motor, engage/disengage 4WD. Does shift motor plunger move at least 1/2"? No: shift motor bad Yes: Check axle shift fork and vacuum motor for binding

  Good luck.   Dave

  Checking For Limited Differential Operation

  > How can I find out whether my RAM has a limited-slip differential or  not?

  The only sure way to tell if a LS differential is installed AND working is to:

  - block the wheels- put the transmission in neutral- release the parking brake- jack one rear wheel until the tire clears the ground- try to turn the tire by hand.

  * If it turns freely, the differential is open  (build codes, stickers, axle tags, etc can be wrong) or the LS clutches are worn out.

  *  If it requires at least 50 ft-lb to turn the tire, there is a traction aiding diff of some kind installed (or a bad bearing somewhere).

  Dave

   

   Last Update: November 1, 2000

  

• Dodge Ram Pickup 1500 Questions - looking for how to ...

  aztec626bf answered 2 years ago

  If your 4 wheel isn't engaging its most likely the vacuum actuator. This is mounted on front axle on passenger side. It uses engine vacuum to shift a collar on front axle to lock it in. First check if you have vacuum to actuator and check the steel vacuum lines for holes rusted through.

  3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.

  

• Dodge Ram 4×4 Wheel Hub Bearing Replacement ...

  We found these instructions online and posted them for the use of our customers.

  Cost of Replacement-

  Dealer-420.00

  Napa-330.00

  Discount Auto Parts-280.00AutoPartsDirectToYou.com -179.99

  I had to replace passenger side front Dana 44 axle hub (unit bearing) and the axle u-joints after 100,000 miles on my non-ABS 97 Dodge Ram 1500. To check for hub failure prior to the wheel falling off, you can jack up the wheel, grab the top and bottom and try to wiggle it . If it moves, then you need hubs or ball joints. Watch the ball joints for movement. If they stay put, then the hubs are bad. Although they can be pricey, I recommend replacing both driver and passenger side hubs at the same time.

  To start, block the rear wheel and jack the front end up. Support with jack stands. Remove the wheels. Remove the cotter pin from the hub nut.

  

  In order to remove the hub nut, you will need to either have someone apply the brakes or do as I did and jam a socket extension into the rotor vents and let it jam against the caliper frame to keep the axle from turning while you remove the hub nut. This 1-11/16?  nut is torqued on at 175 lb-ft so it will take a bit to get it off. I had to buy a 3/4? drive socket set ($42 from Harbor Freight… hey I only need it a few times) in order to remove it.

  

  Remove the caliper and hang it from the frame with some wire or bungee cord. Do NOT let it hang from the brake line. Remove the rotor.

  

  Remove the three 14mm 12pt bolts from the back of the steering knuckle. You will need to turn the knuckle all the way both left and right in order to get all three bolts out. These are torqued at 125 lb-ft so they will be a bit difficult as well to break loose. (BTW, like my custom tie rod?)

  

  Now you will need to work the outer hub bearing race out of the knuckle. I had to tab on the hub mounting flange with a hammer back and forth to get the outer race to break loose from the rust and start turning. Tap parallel to the knuckle face near the hub bolt holes. You may also need to pry a bit with a crowbar. Another method is to get some spare bolts that fit the hub and thread those into the hub (replace the knuckle bolts) and use a hammer to tap on them from behind to force the hub out of the knuckle. Remove the bolts and pull the hub/bearing out. Take note of how the two sheet-metal pieces go on. In order to prevent damage to the axle shaft seals, remove the hub and leave the axle shaft in place (push the stub shaft back through the hub). Then remove the axle shaft. Be sure to keep the shaft centered in the axle tube to avoid damaging the seal. During the hub removal, be sure to check for ABS connections if you have any.

  

  Here is the driver side hub-axle assembly.

  

  Here is a comparison of both side assemblies. Note the larger splined end of the passenger outer shaft.

  

  This the is the stub shaft and outer axle shaft for my non-ABS truck. An ABS equipped truck will have a tone ring fitted to the stub shaft between the flange and the u-joint.

  

  Here is a comparison of both side assemblies. Note the larger splined end of the passenger outer shaft (CAD end). You can also see the necked down area of the inner shafts that is the weak point of the factory setup.

  

  In order to replace the axle u-joints, you need to remove the c-clips from the underside of the caps using a screwdriver. They should come off easily.

  

  Using a u-joint press (or sockets and a hammer or vise) remove the caps from the u-joint and remove the cross.

  

  I replaced the stock/standard Spicer 5-297x u-joints with the new Spicer 5-760x joints. They are supposedly 20% stronger than the old style. The main body is thicker with even thicker sections near the cross shafts. Also the cross shafts have more metal inthem (notice the smaller hole)

  

  

  

  

  Here is the new hub I picked up from Napa. It has Timken bearings and is made by Chicago Rawhide. It comes with new wheel studs already pressed in. You can see the splined area where the stub shaft fits and turns the wheels.

  

  This is the back side of the new hub. Notice the bearings and hub flange setup. When I reassembled the hub, I tried to force as much bearing grease into the back o fthe bearing as possible since I drive through mud and water a lot and I am hoping to minimize thespace it can get into. The new units I bought came prelubed.

  

  Reassembly is the reverse of removal. I recommend that you try to clean out any dirt/mud built up in the axle tube as to minimze the oil contamination and damage to seals. I used a carpenters framing square since it is fairly rigid and fits the tube and let me scrape out 90% of the gunk. Also, when reinstalling the axle shaft, try to keep the splined end from touching the remaining dirt in the tube and go slowly. You do not want to damage the seals by nicking them. When reinstalling the hubs, put some anti-seize on the outer bearing race that fits into knuckle. This will make it easier to reassemble as well as disassemble if needed later. Once the hub is back in place and bolted up, be sure to get the bake cooling plate and space back on in the correct way. The spacer should go on first, then the big airflow plate. The plate should be open in the rear and the “bent” portion should be forward and to the inside of the truck (so the air is pushed in from the front and directed towards the caliper/rotor). Torque the hub-to-knuckle bolts to 125 lb-ft. Install the hub nut. Assemble the rotor and caliper. In order to tighten the hub nut, have someone apply the brakes or use a socket extension to jam into the rotor vents. Torque to 175 lb-ft. and secure with a new cotter pin. Reinstall wheels and lower vehicle. Test drive and check for axle seal leaks and recheck bolts/nuts.

  

• 4 wheel drive - 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 - Auto Repair and ...

  Have a problem I need to know how the vacumm line that comes off the side of the intake goes to the 4 wheel drive and the vaccum that goes into the firewall I've look and look for a pictures and can't find anything any help will be appreciated

  

• 2001 Dodge Ram 4 Wheel Drive Issues: I Own a 2001 Dodge ...

  The locking bolt is near the end of the rod. You will have to have a helpermove the shift lever to see if it's working. If the rod is working then there is something wrong inside the t-case. ADJUSTMENT SHIFT LEVER

  1. Move shift lever into 2H position.2. Raise vehicle.

  Fig. 118: Shifter AdjustmentCourtesy of DAIMLERCHRYSLER CORP.

  3. Loosen shift rod lock bolt at trunnion (Fig. 119).

  Fig. 119: Shift Rod Lock Bolt LocationCourtesy of DAIMLERCHRYSLER CORP.

  4. Check shift rod fit in trunnion. Be sure rod does not bind in trunnion. Lubricate the shift rod and trunnion if necessary.5. Verify that transfer case shift lever is in 2H detent position. The 2H detent position on the transfer case shift arm is the second position from full forward.6. Align the adjustment locating hole on the lower shifter lever with the adjustment channel on the shifter bracket assembly (Fig. 120).

  Fig. 120: Shifter Adjustment LocationCourtesy of DAIMLERCHRYSLER CORP.

  7. Insert an appropriately sized pin through into the adjustment channel and through the locating hole to hold the shifter in the correct position.8. Tighten shift rod lock bolt to 10 N.M (90 in. Lbs.) Torque.9. Remove the locating pin from the adjustment channel and locating hole.10. Check shift linkage operation. Be sure transfer case shifts into and operates properly in all ranges.

  

• 1500 SLT 4WD Leather Sunroof Tow Hitch Tonneau Cover Bed-liner Backup Cam Bose Audio

  08/22/15, via Car Pages

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• 2001 Dodge Ram 1500

  08/21/15, via KSL

  *****ASKING $1750.00 O.B.O, CLEAN TITLE IN HAND, ONLY 158,000 MILES***** THIS IS A 01 DODGE RAM 1500, REAR WHEEL DRIVE, 4 DOOR, CD PLAYER. RUNS GREAT. THIS WOULD MAKE A GREAT CHEAP WORK TRUCK. CALL IF INTERESTED 801-651-1139

• Fiat’s new small crossover is the “X” factor in brand’s return

  08/21/15, via Pittsburgh Post-Gazette

  After its initial success absorbing its Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep and Ram ... The 2.4-liter Tigershark MultiAir2 engine produces 180 horsepower and 175 lb-ft. of torque, and is paired exclusively to a nine-speed automatic transmission on front wheel drive ...

• Cost of new Nappanee pavilion tops $435,000

  08/18/15, via Goshen News

  The board approved the purchase of the additional Dodge Ram Special Services Vehicle. Fire Chief Don Lehman received approval to purchase a 2016 crew cab four-wheel drive pickup from McCormick Chevrolet in Nappanee, which was the low bidder at a cost of $ ...

• Dodge 'Roadkill Nights' drag racing may be annual event

  08/13/15, via Detroit Free Press

  A 2001 Dodge Ram heavy duty pickup drag racing at "Roadkill Nights ... winning just because I‘ve watched a lot of people burn their tires, and I have four-wheel drive," Teague said. The final public race matched Teague's pickup against a yellow ...

• Ramcharger-Inspired 1964 Dodge Polara With A Turbo Twist!

  08/13/15, via HOT ROD

  To apply that first part, Romig picked up an '05 SRT-4. He modified everything himself and eventually got the little front-wheel drive sedan running an 11.04 at130 mph. Turbocharging benefits confirmed! While studying, Romig learned the two most formative ...

• 9-Second 2003 Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel Drag Race Truck

  08/13/15, via Truck Trend Magazine Online

  Sticking with the low-budget theme, the front and rear axles of the four-wheel-drive Ram are factory stock, except for a Detroit Locker in the rear differential. Adjustable Rancho RS9000 XL shocks and CalTracs rear traction bars allow Daniel to dial-in the ...